TORCH 3" Front 2" Rear Leveling Lift Kit for 88-98 Chevy/GMC C1500 Rear Block Installation (2023)

Introduction

TORCH 3" Front 2" Rear Leveling Lift Kit for 88-98 Chevy/GMC C1500 Rear Block Installation Overview

Video Credit: Hart Rock Garage (check out his channel here: www.youtube.com/channel/UCzv8_bLr2ZpYOZVJe8oIDag)

Website Link for Lift Kit: torchoffroad.com/collections/chevy-gm/products/1992-1999-chevy-suburban-tahoe-gmc-yukon-lift-kit

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Content

For the rear, half just put your jack right underneath the axle on the differential there that'll raise the whole rear end up, and then you can find a whatever sweet spot.

You like on the frame.

I usually go right in front where the frame dips back down goes underneath the cab- that's usually where I do it on these uh short wheel bases like this.

It can kind of teeter.

If you don't get it just ride, so be sure to be careful when getting the right spot, so you'll have instructions for the rear u-bolts.

Just like you do the uh the front spring spacers so well.

Everything is on there that you need, but one of the important things is when you're putting together just that this piece is taller than this piece, so it's tapered forward, and that is what you want to face to the front and what that's for is to give your driveline the proper pinion angle, so they went ahead and engineered it, so you wouldn't have to do uh any any shimming or anything uh years ago, when I was doing these, you had to shim them and put your angle finder and all that on it.

You don't even have to deal with this for these little for these little kits so um we're going to go ahead and get these u-bolts off unbolt the shocks and uh we'll lower the axle down, get ready to put in the new spacers here and then the the shocks, let's just dive right in on the action.

You know you work on these things, there's always something stupid like this.

It slows you down always be prepared for it.

It's happening.

It happens to me every time, man all right, so I finally got that loose.

All you want to do is make sure you got your jack underneath the axle just tap that off, like so keep up with this bad boy, nuts and washers on the old u-bolts, throw them out of the way all right.

So now, we'll pull this bottom shock mount off.

Oh yeah, it's going to be a good one, you'll see in the directions.

It says to unbolt the bottom mount, but not the top, don't remove, but we are going to remove it because we got new shocks, attitude, adjustment, all right, bottom of the shock, removed, go ahead and remove the other side and then we'll lower it down all right.

Now that we've got both sides, undone, that was the worst set of u-bolts I've ever dealt with.

In my life I mean whoever put those on I'll have their ass whipped.

I ain't kidding anyway, moving forward we're gonna, go ahead and put our new blocks in here and our new u-bolts on.

So remember, when you do this, you want your taper to go forward like so all right.

So this goes down in your axle and then it's got a hole on top for your bolt here on your leaf spring.

So just make sure you get that in there properly and everything will be good taper forward.

You want to be careful.

I've got this sitting on a jack stand, it's just kind of chilling there.

So um I've got jack stands underneath just in case he falls, but you don't really have any support and I don't have you know a lift or anything to put this on.

So, if you're doing it on the ground or concrete like, I always do just be sure, you've got something underneath it where it doesn't just fall and you smash and break a finger or something silly like that.

Then bring our new bolts down.

Okay, number: two: you can see torches, I'm gonna go ahead and put it on the other side as well.

That way we can start working with it.

So now it's just a matter of putting it back together, the opposite of how you took it apart, gonna get our new u-bolts in our new new washers and lock nuts.

These come with the night, lock style get these on and then we'll slowly just start raising up that axle.

So we can get this positioned correctly.

Is you can get these off and you're going to wish you to never put the lift on, and that has nothing to do with just the lift it just has to do with the axle when you're, changing, u-bolts or lowering or anything like that.

You pull these things off.

You don't get them on there right, you're going to regret it so now make sure on this plate.

You put them in the grooves.

That's how it clamps down on top of these springs so make sure you're putting it right inside these grooves.

Here you can see the little ripple.

Now we pointed the pin down which goes into the hole you perch, and then there was a hole here for the bolt of the leaf spring, which goes into the top of this lift block here.

So now we're all set we're good to go.

We got that in there.

We can put some tension on these here just to raise it up.

Since we know it's where we want it and then we'll go over to that side and do the same thing on it, I'm going to just slightly run these u-bolts up just to keep us in the position we want to be in that way.

When we go to the other side, this side doesn't come out of square okay.

So before we move the other side, let's make sure see how that's kind of trying to pop out so is that I might just give them a little tap back in their place.

A little love tap and then notice right here there were our little uh brackets a little bit off, so we'll just tap it.

This way after we get uh we'll look at that stuff after we get them both snugged up.

So there we go.

She was in a bind, got it now now we'll run these bolts up where we need them still snugged, but not torqued, but they're up there good.

You can see how the block's sitting, where we kind of where we want it, so we're going to go ahead and do the same thing here: go ahead and get it snug and then we're gonna, replace the shocks and then we'll raise it up.

Put some tension on it and we'll really torque everything down, put the wheels back on and set her down, see how she I looks to run them evenly.

So you'll see me just kind of cross around and what I'm doing is one like.

I said I want to make sure that we're getting this roughly where it used to be you can see.

I got that back covering where that rust spot was where this was sitting, and you want that block sitting level to where it's just like the perch wasn't in stock position.

So you just want all that sitting like it was, so you don't throw your pinion off that pinion angle, which could tear up your u-joints, and you don't want it.

You don't want your axle caulk sideways, where you're driving sideways down the road you can start wearing tires and gears, and everything else out.

You just got to make sure that's in there the way it looked before and put your bracket down here where it was and just get this all squared up and flush new blocks and bolts good to go.